A Guide To Puppy Development
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By Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia
Most pups are willing learners and in many ways they are like babies – lively and curious. This combination of behavior makes early life the best time to shape behavior. What a puppy will become starts while it is a puppy. Attitude, habits, fears and attractions all begin early. Knowing a few of the basics such as how to manage, feed and develop them can also make the difference when they become adults.
From a practical point of view, knowing a few of the dos and don’ts can make a real difference. This is only a guide and owners should remember that a dog that is indifferent to his owner’s commands has learned not to respect his owner.
Feeding and Management
Most breeders recommend three small feedings daily. By 6-7 months of age they can be fed twice each day. Adjust accordingly for the size of the pup. The best way to know if you are feeding too much or too little is to look at your pups ribs. They will stay healthy and live longer if kept in good body weight and on the thin side. Occasional treats are okay.
What to feed? Use a good quality dry food with a little water. When you add supplements and other items like cheese, meat, eggs, vitamins, etc. you are altering the manufactures formula which can have unintended consequences. Since many feeds today are perfectly formulated for growth and development, changing the formula is not a good idea. The quantity of food given each day depends on the size of your pup.
SOCIALIZATION
Socialization is a necessary and important part of good development. Exposing a pup to new and different places teaches them to be comfortable around strangers and changing situations. By eight weeks of age a new puppy should be accustomed to normal household sounds: the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV, radio, toilet, etc. Ideally, this was begun by the breeder. It is important to take a pup on short car rides to get him/her over motion sickness. Do this before feeding.
New and different environments are an important part of their socialization. Weekly trips to the park, school grounds, construction sites, busy sidewalks and shopping malls provide lots of interesting smells, sounds and opportunities to explore. Much more has been written about socializing your pup. There is an extensive discussion on puppy raising in a book written by the Monks of New Skete titled, The Art of Raising A Puppy.
TRAINING
The belief that pups should not be trained until they are six months of age is not true. All pups can benefit from obedience training as early as six weeks. By six months of age, most behavior problems have begun to develop and some are already in place. This means that early socialization and training must be used to avoid problems before they become more difficult and frustrating. Remember that bad habits are hard to correct, therefore owners should never allow nipping, chewing, digging, barking, mounting, etc. which are all normal behaviors but, if left uncorrected, can lead to behavior problems. Each day that a pup grows and develops it learns more about what is expected of it as an adult. Owners who do not pay attention to early training soon learn that bad habits are hard to change.
SOME GUIDELINES
There is an old but reliable statement we should not forget. “Preventing problems is easier than solving them.”
1. Do not leave children alone with a new pup. Inevitably, the pup will view the child as a littermate. They will nip, jump and begin to seek dominance and a pecking order.
2. Do not allow pups to join in running games with children. The pup will begin to think of children as “prey” and might nip.
3. Never allow aggressive play and avoid tug-of-war games with a puppy. This can lead to aggressive behavior and biting. Instead, throw a ball. Tug-of-war before four months of age also stresses the elbow joints and is not recommended.
4. Remind children to leave a sleeping puppy alone. Enforce the idea that pups need their rest.
5. Do not surprise pups or adult dogs that are sleeping. A serious incident could occur.
6. Encourage everyone in the home, including the children, to think of the puppy as a sensitive, living thing with needs and desires – not a toy.
7. Parents have an obligation and should not assume that the mix of children, dogs and pups does not need supervision. Children lack adult judgment, therefore all child-dog interactions should be monitored and, yes, there will be times when you will have to protect the pup from children and vice-versa.
VOCABULARY
Owners must establish a vocabulary as the way to communicate with their pup. One-syllable words can be used to teach what is expected, what is desired and what is unacceptable. Because they do not recognize sentences, one-syllable words work best. Pups can easily respond to one syllable words which are quickly associated with specific behaviors. The following words are the recommended basic commands. Notice that they are all one-syllable words: no, come, down, sit, stay, stop, free and OK.
Tone is also important that during the learning process. “NO” and “STOP” are two words that must be said in a voice tone that is loud and angry. “COME” should be a happy upbeat sound. Your tone and loudness sends the message. Dogs can learn a lot if the commands are simple and consistent.
There is another rule. “Learning is not portable”. If a word (command) is learned in the house, take the pup outside, to the park and shopping center and other places. Repeat the same command in each place. It will not be long before the pup/dog learns and then associates the word with the desired behavior regardless of the location.
HOUSE TRAINING
Dogs are den animals. A crate provides a secure place to sleep and rest. Most pups will not soil their den. As a rule, all pups will have to “go” upon waking, after eating and after drinking. Watch for behavior that looks like busy circling and sniffing. They usually look for the right place before the “go”. Most of the time there is a signal that forecasts elimination.
Food remains in the intestinal tract for about 10 hours. Therefore, a regular feeding schedule will equate to a regular bathroom schedule. Dogs allowed to free feed will munch all day, and what goes in all day comes out all day. A feeding at 6 a.m. will produce elimination by noon and a 6 p.m. feeding will produce elimination before midnight.
House training will be simplified by using a crate. Owners who work part-time can simply crate-train the pup while away. Those who stay at home all day can observe their pup’s behavior as they go about their chores, monitoring to see when the pup indicates he needs to “go”. People who work full-time should not expect a young pup to be crated for 6-8 hours at a stretch.
After elimination, always reward the pup verbally and then allow a brief playtime.
Do:
• Expect a few noisy nights when the pup first comes home.
• Adhere to a rigid walk-play-feed-walk schedule.
• Feed on a regular schedule.
• Allow quiet time in the crate.
Do Not:
• Expect the pup to spend more than four hours in the crate.
• Allow children to tease the pup at any time.
• Take the pup out of his crate if he is barking or crying.
• Place rugs, pillows, etc. in the crate. Use newspapers.
BITING
All pups have learned to use their teeth by eight weeks of age. They have learned how to nip at their littermates as a way to establish the pecking order. Nipping precedes biting and it often begins as a way to set limits. A nip that is not corrected will escalate as the pup begins to think of himself as the leader of the pack. Their mother never permitted them to nip her. If they did, she swiftly punished them. Her consistent behavior taught them about corrections and bad behavior. Take advantage of her training.
Never plead for obedience. Discipline does not have to be harsh, physical punishment and it should not be negotiable.
Use “NO” for actions that are not appropriate. “NO” is your authoritative sound and when you say it you should expect an immediate reaction. Do not use the word “NO” combined with your pup’s name. For acceptable behavior, use “OK” or “Good” in an upbeat, happy-sounding voice. These two words should be your positive reward words. If a normal correction does not work, the “grab” lead is useful when training other new commands.
Another correction method is to grasp the coat at the neck, just under the ears. Get a good handful of coat. Then give the pup a good shake while saying “NO”. Pups understand this correction. It is similar to the way their mother corrected them.
TREATS
Food as a treat to train is recommended by many trainers. Treats serve as a reward when training. They should be very small. The size and amount is also important. A tiny piece of treat, such as a small piece of hot dog, boiled liver or chicken is sufficient. The smaller the better. A pup will work hard for a small reward. Use a treat to reward desired behavior. For example, reward a pup who “sits” on command with a small treat. Just one piece each time, not a mouthful.
Eye contact is an important part of training. One of your training goals should be to have your pup look you in the eye. A new pup should be trained to bring their eyes up to yours. Pups should be comfortable looking at you and others eye to eye. Their natural tendency is to glance and look away. Your goal is to have them look you in the eye and be comfortable with it. Verbal praise and petting should be part of this learning activity.
Begin this exercise by getting the pup’s attention, then take a small piece of treat and slowly move it up to your nose. This will cause the pup to follow the treat and be looking at you. When the pup is looking you in the eye move the treat from your nose to the pup’s mouth while saying “GOOD”.
A tiny piece of treat will suffice. Repeat this daily until the pup is comfortable looking you in the eyes.
CHEWING – DIGGING
Puppies and dogs all have a need for human contact and attention. If they do not get it some will vent their loneliness, boredom and frustration on whatever object catches their fancy. Pups that are allowed to continue destructive chewing develop into problem chewers.
A pup who is crated during his owners’ absence cannot indulge in destructive activities. While freedom to explore is important, it should be supervised. Remember, your pup will have to hear the word “NO” many times before he learns which household objects and furniture are not chew toys. When you see chewing and digging you want stopped, clap your hands loudly and stomp on the floor to attract attention followed with a loud “NO”. When they release the object, offer a substitute “chewy” and lots of verbal praise when they take the treat.
OVERINDULEGENCE
The term “good owner” means that rules are always enforced. Pups and adult dogs look for leadership from their owner. Allowing them to indulge in bad behavior such as nipping, begging, stealing from the table, barking, etc. are all bad habits that will be hard to stop if ignored. Do not make excuses for these behaviors, because they are likely to get worse.
Dogs that constantly demand attention are overindulged. When this occurs, ask yourself if you are “buying” the pup’s love with permissiveness such as over-petting or coddling. Every pup will naturally find its place in the family pack. They learn their place and your family rules each day when corrections are used. Owners must always assume the “leader” position which provides the security that every pup/dog needs.
LEADERSHIP
All dogs require leadership, structure and security. Pups already know and understand this structure because their mother corrected them with firm, swift, and instant corrections. They learned right from wrong when their mother would shake them by the neck, or pin them to the ground until they would submit. She made sure they knew she was the “boss”. In a new home, a pup will look for the same structure. If none is provided, pups will begin to assert themselves. This is usually seen in the form of growls, nips and other kinds of dominant behavior.
All members of the family must agree to use the same vocabulary and behave consistently toward the pup/dog. There can be no exceptions, period. “Oh, just this once” is the beginning of confusion. Puppies and dogs do not understand inconsistency. For example, if your house rule is that they will not to be allowed on your furniture, it must be all the furniture all of the time. Do not allow the pup on the couch one day and scold him the next. This is very confusing. Once they learn they are allowed on one piece of furniture, it is very hard to stop. Unlearning a behavior always takes more time. Therefore, you must have one rule for the furniture with no exceptions.
PRAISE AND DISCIPLINE
Canines do not understand words or phrases but they do associate words of one syllable with expected behavior. As the leader, use a happy, enthusiastic tone when praising good behavior. Generous amounts of praise for good behavior will pay off. From your puppy’s point of view, a reward means you like the behavior and want more of the same. Never reward fearful behavior by “soothing” it with a soft voice or stroking. This only reinforces the bad behavior. Praise and discipline should not be confusing. Use a stern and loud tone when correcting bad behavior and a happy, upbeat tone when giving rewards. Your tone becomes your most important signal. It provides feedback they understand.
BEGGING
Begging usually begins with an indulgent owner offering food from his plate or the kitchen counter. This easily leads to whining, barking, climbing on the table, etc. Never offer the pup food from your plate, table or kitchen counter. This is a bad habit and it will lead to begging problems. A good rule is to crate the pup during your meal time.
GROWLING OVER FOOD
Pups should not be allowed to growl over food, especially if there are children in the household. To avoid growling and related problems, begin at feeding time. Sit on the floor while holding on to the food dish. Call the pup to you. Say the puppy’s name followed by “Come”. Use lots of verbal praise when the pup comes to you. As the pup eats, talk to him and pet him. Touching is important. Have each member of the family take turns at different meal times.
If the pup should growl or indicate any defensiveness, say “NO” loudly. The pup should see this as a correction then grab him by the middle, and pull him backward away from the dish. When the pup subsides, release him, and allow him to resume eating. Repeat if he growls again. Repetition is important. This works well with most young pups.
JUMPING ON PEOPLE
Start immediately to teach your pup that jumping on you and others is not allowed. Your rule should be that you want all four feet on the ground. Start this immediately when a new pup comes home. Do not encourage a pup to stretch up to greet you, instead, crouch down to his level. Assist him in sitting, and then greet him. Most pups enjoy the annoying habit of jumping on people to greet them. Whenever the pup jumps on you, simply grasp both front paws securely, holding them up long enough for it to become uncomfortable in the standing position. Do not say anything. Then put the pup down gently. When the pup experiences this response consistently, he will avoid jumping up to greet you. You must use praise for not jumping.
OTHER DOGS IN THE HOUSEHOLD
If you have an older dog at home make sure that you feed him/her and your pup separately. This will avoid conflicts.
GROOMING
Every pup needs to have its coat brushed at least weekly and its toenails trimmed every two weeks. A grooming table is ideal to groom the coat and trim the toenails. The best way to start is to put the pup on the table every day and praise him on the table. Get him/her used to your hands touching the head, back, belly legs, and tail.
Trimming the toenails takes patience. Toenail clippers are available at pet stores. The first few days you try this you will not trim the nails. Just handle the feet and toes. Touch all four feet daily. When the pup is not anxious, clip just the tip of the nail, just a tiny bit. One nail will do. The next time try two toenails. Each time increase the number of toenails. Your goal is to trim all the nails every two weeks.
Start this exercise with a happy tone and a bowl of treats. A special area and stopping are all part of training your pup to like grooming. Five simple rules will get your pup to like the grooming experience. Rule one: act happy and sound happy before and during the grooming process. Two: always have a bowl of small treats handy so that your pup associates treats and your happy attitude with grooming. Three: use an area to groom where nothing bad happens such as the bathroom, porch, sink, grooming table, etc. Use only an animated voice in this place. Look and act happy. Four: if for some reason things do not go well, stop. You can always return later. It may be that you will have to stop after just one toenail, or the beginning of the brushing. When you stop, always sound happy. Finally, do not let your pup see you act upset when grooming it. You are in charge and the leader. Keep that position with your attitude and voice tone.
AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB (AKC) REGISTRATION
Every pup deserves to be registered to its owner. AKC registrations not only prove ownership, they also support canine research and all the good works carried out by the AKC.
MICROCHIPS
Every pup should be positively identified. The best method is a microchip which is placed under the skin at the shoulders. Microchips serve as positive identification if the animal is lost or stolen. They should be enrolled in the AKC Reunite Recovery® database which is the largest not-for-profit recovery database in North America. When animals are found, they are usually taken to a shelter or vet’s office where they are scanned for a microchip. Lost pets have a 90% chance of being returned to their owners. Owner information and microchip numbers can be enrolled online at www.AKC/reunite.org
FINAL WORD OF ADVICE
Puppies and dogs do not have long-term memory like humans. You should begin a regular schedule of training along with follow-up on what has been learned. A good way to keep your pup/dog in tune with what you have taught him is to go through the exercises once or twice a week. Remember that learning is not portable. What is learned at home must be repeated in other locations. Soon the pup/dog will understand that your commands mean the same thing wherever you are and regardless of what is happening.
References:
• Battaglia, C. 1988. The Proper Care of German Shepherds T.F.H. Publications, Neptune, N. J.
• Fox, M. 1976. Between Animal and Man, New York: Coward, McCann and Geoghegan
• Hammond, S. 2006. Training the Disaster Search Dog
Dogwise Publishing, Wenatchee, WA
• Phaffenberger, C. 1963. The Knowledge of Dog Behavior
New York: Howell
• Siegal, M. 1965. The Good Dog Book New York: Mcamillan
• Scott, J. 1958. Animal Behavior
Chicago, University of Chicago Press
• Weiss, J. 1980. Training a Dog to Live in Your Home
Book One: Adams Press, Chicago
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Posted by ralbee
on Apr 14 2016. Filed under Current Articles, Editorial, Featured.
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