Victor Joris – A Friend’s Perspective

By Amy Fernandez

I moped around for days when I learned that Victor Joris passed away March 12. Then I realized that this noted designer, author, and judge would disapprove. He never wasted time. Incredibly artistic and imaginative, his interests were wide ranging, and he had the rare ability to enjoy every aspect of life. It didn’t matter if we were slogging around a miserably cold, muddy show, or playing miniature golf at midnight in Nowhere, Missouri. His fascination with life made the most mundane events unforgettable.

Born in Louisiana in 1929, he never lost touch with his roots. After a lively conversation about alligators, I received a photo of Victor’s dad gator wrangling. His father had Am Staffs, Rat Terriers, and Chihuahuas, and also inspired Victor’s love for dogs.

His goals took shape early, guided by his interest in fashion and oriental design. At 16, he moved to New York and entered the Traphagen School of Fashion. Located in Grammercy Park, near the fashion district, Traphagen was the real deal. Before closing in the late ‘90s, it launched superstars like Geoffrey Beene, James Galanos, Mary McFadden, and John Kloss. Victor graduated with honors, and completed his education at the more rigorous Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. He apprenticed with Dior and Balmain before returning home to enlist in the Army.

He entered the fashion world as a sketch artist for Jean Louis, Columbia’s head designer from 1944 to 1960. If asked, he would tell you about the stars he knew in Hollywood, but he was never a namedropper. Understated and unfailingly polite, Victor personified the self-confidence of success.

In 1958 he returned to New York as head designer for Cuddlecoat, putting this century-old family company on fashion’s cutting edge. Victor revered tradition and methodology, but rules were meant to be broken as he noted in a 1972 interview. “I’ve always considered it the height of nerve to impose theories on people and say THIS IS IT, DON’T DEVIATE. When fashion dictates that pastels are only in for summer I automatically see them on a wintry day.” Today, fashion magazines showcase “new trends” that Victor introduced 30 years ago.

He was a fashion innovator, winning his first Coty in 1965. During his 33 years in the rag business, he was also head designer for Jones Apparel. His designs were worn by Jackie Kennedy, Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon, Barbra Streisand, Ali McGraw, Judy Collins, Lauren Hutton, Julie Christie, Cybil Shepherd, and Carol Channing. Many of his designs belong to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Collection, and garner high prices in the vintage clothing market.

He was at the top of his game in 1969 after winning his second Coty, and admitted that he didn’t anticipate a new career path. “My name was all over the place. I had been traveling so much, doing trunk shows and going to Europe for different collections.” He considered taking a holiday and getting a dog when he attended a Long Island party that changed his life. “A funny looking little dog jumped on the sofa next to me. It was cut down and had a flat face. I was fascinated.” His hostess explained that it was a Shih Tzu bred by Rev. Allan Easton.

Foundation breeders Allan and Margaret Easton then lived in New Jersey. Victor soon arranged to see their seven week-old litter. “I read the standard, but had only seen one little dog before I got there.” The puppy that caught his eye turned out to be multiple BIS winner, Ch. Chumulari Chin Te Jih, ROM. Sunshine was a double grandson of Am. Can. Ch. Chumulari Ying Ying, ROM, the dog that made Shih Tzu history going BIS under Alva Rosenberg the day the breed was AKC recognized in 1969. A few months later, Victor entered Sunshine at Progressive. “I had absolutely no idea what I was doing.” He admitted that he was ready to leave when he noticed a woman in the Yorkie ring who seemed to know what she was doing. That was Jane Forsyth. She showed Sunshine to his first major that day, and handled him to a successful career. Victor continued working with the Eastons, taking over the Chumulari prefix after Margaret Easton’s death. Sunshine sired 35 champions and Victor went on to write the bestselling The Complete Shih Tzu.

I met Victor after he retired from the rag business, and embarked on his next career as a judge. Obviously, I’d heard of him, but I wondered how much a fashion designer could possibly know about dogs. My skepticism disappeared within minutes. It didn’t matter if he was looking at a dress or a dog Victor was an artist. His understanding of symmetry, balance, and type came naturally. He was the first to admit that he didn’t know it all, but he never lost his delight in learning the fine points of a breed or discovering a beautiful puppy. He hated fads, prized classics, and understood the principles of utilitarian design. In other words, he was the perfect combination of artist and pragmatist to become a great dog judge. Ultimately approved for all Toys and eight Non-Sporting breeds, his assignments routinely overdrew. Win or lose, you wanted to show to him again.

For years, his Westminster fashion feature was hugely popular. I treasure those days with him as watched and sketched as we talked dogs in the way that seems to be disappearing. But it wasn’t just dog talk. He was the sharpest social critics I’ve ever met. A 1972 interview described him as “surrounded by a seemingly impenetrable aura of mystery based on his introvert personality.” He really wasn’t introverted. He used language economically and chose his friends carefully.

He could also be surprisingly blunt. When a mutual acquaintance wronged us, he was truly outraged by this violation of ethical behavior. He dealt with it directly. A few weeks later, I received a voodoo doll, perfect down to the neat couture stitching. I’ll leave the story there, but it reinforced my belief that Victor was very good at so many things.

I’m tempted to say the dog world wont be the same without him, but Victor would be the first to call that cliché. I miss him personally and professionally.

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